In this free online poker article Gloves looks at postflop play against the 4 main player types of loose-tight + passive-aggressive in free poker and nano stakes online poker games. Justin, over to you:

For quite some time, I didn’t know exactly what to write about in my third article. Many ideas floated through my head – cover variance perhaps, or start covering tournament strategy and how it’s fundamentally different from cash strategy.

However, while I’ll definitely cover those topics in the future, the title of this series again sprang to mind. “From the Ground Up”. And I realized that in part one some general poker mindset concepts were covered and in part two some general preflop concepts and strategy was covered (and I also introduced hand ranges, which will come into major play in this article – go back and read the hand range section in part 2 if you need a refresher).

So, logically, it makes sense to continue just as if we were progressing in a poker hand. So we get to the flop with a solid hand (remember, no playing trash!)…but, now what?

And postflop play, in my opinion, is really what makes poker such a complex, beautiful game.

Hopefully by the end of this article you readers will both see this as well as know how to play a solid postflop style.

Postflop play is the weakest aspect of most poker players’ games (including mine, no doubt!).

In poker, there are 4 different styles of player (tight/loose) + (passive/aggressive).

In the nanostakes (NPP games and real money games through 5nl (.02/.05 blinds)), each of these player types make a few key mistakes. Hopefully, we’ll look at each player type in depth and discuss how to exploit them.

First, you have the loose-aggressive (LAG) “maniac”

> These are the guys who are betting and/or raising way too often.
> They’ll often cbet (bet flop after raising preflop) almost 100% and will also bet turn and river far too often (keep in mind we hit ~33% of flops long-term).

The trick to playing these guys is to realize that their range in any given spot is extremely wide. What this means is that if you flop second or third pair, calling their bets and raises is often hugely profitable because they’re betting repeatedly with absolutely nothing so often.

They’re somewhat difficult to play against because it takes a lot of guts – calling 3 streets (each a relatively large bet, usually) with third pair weak kicker is not particularly easy, but you have to realize that against some of these guys third pair is basically the same as top pair and so you just shouldn’t fold.

That doesn’t mean to always call down any pair against these players (because there are varying degrees of maniacs; some players will really be betting and raising 100% of the time while others are betting and raising too often but not extremely so).

Another thing to note is that your draws (and as such, suited and connected hands preflop) go way up in value because if you hit your draw you’ll often get paid off bigtime (this is a concept known as implied odds, but I won’t elaborate on this until a later article).

So ultimately against these players pair hands go up in value and draws go up in value. Pay attention at the tables to get a good feel for a player’s range (is he a true spewing maniac, or is he just hyper-aggressive) and try to make these profitable “thin” (not super easy) calldowns against these players.

In general, you should also be waiting for the river to raise these players with your strong hands because they’re going to be betting all 3 streets anyway; you lose lots of value if you raise flop or turn and get them to fold.

A second major player type is the loose-passive (LP) “calling station”

> These guys are often limping or calling hands preflop and not raising very often.
> Postflop they often check-call down while only betting or raising their very strong hands.

These players are very very easy to play against, and you run into tons and tons of them in nanostakes games. Basically, you just want to widen your valuebetting range against these players and never bluff.

So you can often bet down (bet all 3 streets) with hands like weak top pair and even second pair against many of them and just check/fold your bluff hands. When you get raised, you should realize that your second pair and even top pair hands become pretty worthless and you should generally be folding (although again, it depends on the specific opponent).

Draws are also very easy to play against these guys. When we have a draw, we can just check down until we hit and then we can just start betting for value.

Out of position, don’t be afraid to lead on flop and turn if you hit a pair – in nanostakes games you won’t be exploited by these loose-passive players for doing this (against some loose-aggressive and tight-aggressive players you might be) and since they’re unlikely to bet (they’re passive) you will gain value in doing this.

A third major player type is the tight-aggressive (TAG) “ABC Player”.

> In microstakes games, these are generally the most solid opponents you’ll face, but thankfully they’re also pretty rare.

The articles in this series even advocate playing a solid, thinking TAG style.

As you move up in stakes, the real sharks tend to be LAGs, but at micros LAG players make tons of mistakes (generally being overaggressive in bad spots), and it’s also tougher to pull off bluffs (remember, LAG players bluff a lot in order to put constant pressure on their opponents).

> Basically, TAG is how we should be playing at these stakes and we should generally avoid getting into large pots with other TAGs.

> A standard TAG player will be opening reasonable ranges preflop, typically for raises, and they’ll generally be the postflop aggressor as well.

They’ll be cbetting pretty wide but shutting down on later streets a fair amount and they’re very unlikely to spew off their stacks by check-raising or betting down with air.

That said, they also won’t be calling down with their weak pair hands (think second pair and often top pair hands) or draws (without proper odds); they’ll just be generally getting out of the way OOP (Out of position) when they have nothing and playing a solid style IP (In Position) that’s hard to exploit centered around playing solid hand ranges and betting often for value and to get folds out of other tags and tight-passive players.

They don’t get out of line too much. The way to profit out of these guys (when IP) is to cbet flop wide (you’ll get a lot of folds) and to generally slow down if you’re raised.

When you’re OOP, the only real way to exploit these players is to be check/raising flop and turn wide, but you don’t really want to be check/raising with air against thinking players especially at nanos, it’s just super high variance, unnecessary, and will lead to a lot of ugly spots (like when you get flatted after c/ring).

Again, TAG is the style of play we should be emulating as it’s just all-around solid and hard to exploit – don’t get out of line too much (unless you have a read or some other reason to), pick your spots, and get lots of value from other players’ mistakes.

The final major player type is the tight-passive (TP) “rock”

> These players are also pretty common at nanostakes games.
> They often limp in as opposed to raising, and while they call as opposed to 3betting (reraising preflop) they don’t play very many hands as a standard.

They’ll rarely raise you postflop without a true nut hand (think sets or better, usually) and won’t call down without hitting a strong piece of the board (typically top pair).

Thankfully, their tendencies also make them simple to play against.

Their ranges are typically limited to pocket pairs and high card hands (KQ, AJ+ for example), so a ton of middling flops (T84r for example) can be cbet basically 100% as we’ll get folds a ton of the time. We should basically be cbetting flops very wide and shutting down on turn/river if called on flop without a good reason for continuing.

If we have a strong top pair or better, we should continue betting down after the flop. With our draws, we can again check it down until we improve and then bet (although we will rarely get value in those spots).
They’re really straightforward – they only raise with the nuts and are folding too often, so we should raise a lot and bet a lot of flops to profit against them.

Now that we have a solid grasp on the 4 main player types and how to exploit them (but remember, everything is in degrees!

Some TAGs are almost LAG, some TPs are almost LPs, etc…so you have to adjust your play to your individual opponents, these player types are just a tool to help you do that!), I’m going to touch a little bit on a more advanced postflop concept, and it might just blow your minds.

The way we play our hand CHANGES the hand our opponent has.

Think about this for a minute. I haven’t asked you to do an exercise this week, so now would be a good time…grab that notepad and write down why you feel this statement is true or false. Much less work than the last article for sure, where I asked you all to approximate a whole bunch of hand ranges and to provide reasoning for the similarities and differences!

The key to understanding why this concept is true is understanding that poker is not a game of hands, poker is a game of RANGES.

This is another amazing reason why ranges are one of if not THE most important poker concepts to understand.

To illustrate, let’s give an example. Let’s say we’re on the button and it folds around to us.

> We decide we’re going to open (22+, A7o+, A2s+, KTo+, K9s+, QJo, QJs, JTs). That’s 23.4% of hands.
> Now let’s say we’re on the button and there was a raise and a 3bet before us.
> We decide we’re only gonna raise (QQ+, AKs) in this spot.
> We’re still on the button preflop, but now we’re only playing 1.7% of hands!

This applies to postflop play as well – if our villain has x range, when we check/raise if he opts to continue his range is DIFFERENT than if we had just called.

Our actions directly affect the range of hands it’s possible for our opponents to have in any given spot. I’m going to let you guys mull over why this is important for a while.

In the future, I’ll definitely delve into it, but for now just think on it and why it might be important to understand, as the true meaning behind this is dense enough to merit its own article.

A few words of conclusion:
I’m aware that thus far things have been more theoretical than practical, and that’s for a number of reasons.

First off, poker is a very fluid, dynamic game, and I find giving specific advice for a general situation is a flawed way of doing things.

In addition, however, this series is about building your game from the ground up. Hopefully we’re establishing a sound theoretical base for a solid poker game with which you guys learn to think about poker (general to specific, as opposed to the other way around).

At that point, you can analyze your game and specific situations yourselves (although poker buddies to talk specific spots with are a great help always, and you can contact me with any comments/suggestions as well as questions (pertaining to the article or just general) by commenting on the articles, on the NPP facebook page, on my blog, or by email at duncelanas@hotmail.com) in addition to getting more into advanced poker concepts (which are really just extensions of these concepts I’m teaching you now, although some are counter-intuitive).

In the coming weeks, however, things will be a little more concrete (at least for some articles), as I have one planned on implied odds and draws already as well as some future thoughts for delving into some basic to intermediate poker math.

Hope you’ve all enjoyed, and the next article should be up in about a week!

-Gloves

Check out Gloves lesson 1 in this series here – Patience on steroids “Common Sense Poker”

Check out Gloves lesson 2 in this series here – Hand Ranges, Playable Pockets, Table Position and Limping

Check out Justins personal blog here (more advanced stuff)

Check out all the pro written NoPayPOKER.com lessons on the free online poker training page

My this free online poker games coaching lesson looks at the importance of self discipline for winning poker.

What do you do if you have a big hand such as AK or AQ? Typically, we raise with them. Some daring players even reraise them after a reraise. But are they strong enough to call raises?

Here is a hand reconstruction case in point that proves the idea:

BLINDS 5k/10k

A has 10c-4c raises to 27k

A’s hand is very weak but he raises with it. Maybe because A is an aggressive player? Or A is representing A-x which is a good enough hand to steal blinds with, or a big pair? What does B reckon?

B has As-Kc reraises to 87k
A calls 60k

Now B has the dreaded AK. Dreadful both for the owner of A-K and the opponent. If the opponent holds Ax and an Ace comes then unless he’s got 2 pair he will get beaten by the kicker AK.

Yet if the Ace or King does not come, B is going to have a difficult time representing what showed on the Flop, since if the opponent bets, generally the opponents cards will fit the Flop, and B is going to leak chips by attempting to buy the Flop by raising, and typically he is is not comfortable to raise with trash (following the opponents raise at the Flop).

B makes a good raise, it’s good since he is able to drive out a hand without the need to see a Flop (even pairs of JJ or lower can be pushed out); he doesn’t want to play AK too riskily. So how can A reply to the reraise?

A reraises to 237k
B to call 150k

So A really is an aggressive player! A, with nothing, reraises again! This might be a sign of AA, KK, even QQ. If B is facing any of these hands he is always an underdog (even with the Q-Q).

Now B has some options:

1. He can fold, thus not wasting any more chips. This is he decides that AK is better used against a passive opponent than aggressive.

2. He might call, since he has position, but if no Ace or King falls, A, being aggressive, can continuation bet even with trash, and B will have difficulty determining if A is bluffing. And even should he call and an Ace or King falls what if he’s facing AA or KK?

3. He might move all-in and throw A out of the pot, however, a reraise following a reraise is usually the sign of AA or KK (an effective trap), and B can’t make up his mind whether or not A really has AA or KK, or nothing.

So the choices are in support of his folding, so

B folds

A shows the bluff!

The aggression by A paid off well. But the focus of this play is discipline. B certainly did consider the reasons for every action, and determined that folding was the best choice. Of course we can add another reason: If we are in the pot with good players, unless we have good hands, keep out. Hold on until you playing with someone you can steal all the chips from.

Start playing with a strategy by practicing risk free on a free poker online site such as NoPayPOKER.com where you can play with no risk of loss and get loads of free online poker coaching too.

Here is an interesting free poker games strategy you can try in “trial mode” on NoPayPOKER that’s modelled on roulette strategy  that you might want to have a go at to see if it works for you.

Roulette as you may know isn’t a game that can be won like poker, it’s basically a coin flip for red-black or straight % for the various number sets, yet a simple, we could call it, investment formula used by savvy roulette players can be used in poker to great effect. Read on and give it a try in free poker games first to see if it works for you.

When first investigating this idea I was surprised just how much math and strategy roulette fans are prepared to try in order to win a casino game that is fundamentally not winnable on mathematic basis!

Then I thought that as poker is a game where math and profit can work why not try to apply some roulette investment basics to poker and find out if it works.

Firstly I thought about progressing bet-sizes, which are meant to ensure, that you win roulette even when you lose several bets in a row. For instance: You bet 1 piece on black and you lose. Then you bet 2 pieces on red and lose again. Now you put 4 pieces on black and it wins. The result is that you have bet 7 chip for a return of 8 pieces from your last bet and made a profit from a small 33% win rate.

How to include this in poker strategy
For instance, lets use it in SnG tournaments. Starting with a short buy in, advancing to higher buy-ins, if you lose. As you can’t only play heads up, but 6-max, full-ring or even multi-table SNGs, you may not need to raise buy in after each loss.

For example: You play a 6 player SnG for $1 and lose. You play again and if you place 1st get $3.90 or 2nd $2.10 and therefore have gained win or at worst broke even and can rewind and play again at £1. If you lose, play again for $2 and so on.

I think this system could work very well if you can find a range of games with costs to suit the structure and populated by players of a skill level you can compete with. When you get to your profit then, depending on how much profit you have you can either begin again at the entry level or go back in at the next cost step up and aim to increase your profit take in your next “round”.

I believe this is a simple and profitable strategy. If you are excited about playing this method be sure to look at the payout you can get at your favourite poker site and factor in the effects of rake back. Then map out which tables and games will fit the plan and where you can break even or win by placing 1st, 2nd, 3rd and so forth. Remember, you don’t need to play games end on end, there isn’t any time rule here, and games may be hours or even days apart to suit your schedule and that of suitable games.

One key point is to try it out safe first, play free poker games on NoPay first. Do this to get used to table and game selection and to prove it to yourself in order to get trust in the system. And if you are new to poker you first need to learn how to play poker for beginners before you can use this so get on over to a good free poker site and get learning.

No matter what type of poker game you play, free poker games at NoPayPOKER or casino money tables you’ll find 4 main player types by way of their psychology, playing style and philosophy, you too fall into one of these groups. They are tight-passive, tight-aggressive, loose-passive and loose-aggressive,

Within each type there are gradations, for example, probably the most extreme loose-aggressive is termed the “maniac”, this is a player who plays most hands and raises all the time, almost no matter the cards he’s got.

All poker players have a natural tendency to play a certain way. For most players this natural tendency will make them lose money as it makes them play too many or too few hands, makes them too aggressive or passive in many hand situations. All styles have a time and place and good poker players are the ones who can switch styles in order to maximize their chances.

As a first step to improvement you need to identify your natural playing tendency. It is also important to learn to recognize the style of the players who sit at your table so you can counter them in the most effective manner and exploit their shortcomings if they are weak.

Loose-passive
The loose-passive player calls many hands pre and post flop. He wants to lay in as many hands as possible, and will try to hold on to the bitter end while not the slightest chance of winning. Loose-passive players are also generally known as “calling stations”.

Loose-aggressive
The loose-aggressive player plays many hands aggressively with lots of betting and re-raises. Although these players lose long term they’re dangerous sometimes as if their luck in no-limit Hold’em tournaments is good they can get a lot of chips quickly and become the chip leader.

Tight-passive
Generally known as rocks, they play a few hands and play passively. They just bet if they are sure to have the best hand, making their earnings small when they do win. One of many disadvantages the rock has is when you identify them as a rock and they play a hand you’re certain to fold. For that reason on any table with players who have some skill the tight-passive player is largely sidelined.

Tight-aggressive
His game is selective, will bet hard whenever they have the upper hand. Most players who follow this style will be more skilled and have learned to play well and considers things like pot odds and implied odds. Not all players using this style are good but many are and overall it is the best singular style to adopt while adding loose and passive elements as game demands and situations change.

The ideal way to identify your style, learn to spot other players and improve yours is in good yet low risk free online poker games. It’s a fact that we learn by mistakes in poker so let’s keep those mistakes cheap! Micro stakes and free poker games online are the best way of learning new poker skills and the NoPayPOKER free learn how to play poker  lesson series is brilliant with lessons for all player styles and skill levels, learn about things like pot odds and what pocket cards are best, so go start learning more now!

Whether you play poker online free at NoPayPOKER or money games have you ever stopped to think about what the letters in the word POKER might mean? While the truth is that it most likely comes from an old German or French word I’ve thought of a new interpretation based on the letters that is perhaps more suited to modern times and relates to how you should approach poker game play be it a fun free online poker game or WSOP final table stuff! Check it out and maybe add this way of thinking to your poker playing mindset, hopefully you’ll win more if you do.

P – Positive attitude
Having a positive attitude helps a lot in poker. You need to play with the hope that you can win and make things happen. Believe that you’re hand is strong (if it is of course…if you’re a blind and it’s 2-7 fold!) and bet accordingly.

Just waiting and hoping to get a nice pair of aces hardly helps in poker, and when you do get them you might be defeated by a pair of twos. If you play with the wrong attitude, then other players will know that soon and force you to fold by raising the bet.

O – Opportunity
So you are positive and you have a decent hand, now you must take every opportunity that presents itself. When all the cards are on the board and you know you have a good hand you need to bet in order to maximise profit.

It’s no good if you win a hand and get pennies. So keep raising the stakes and win big. Strike when the iron is hot.

K – Knowledge
Real knowledge about poker and being able to figure all the different hand combinations that you can make. Truly this can be hard to master and you also need to be able to predict as best as possible what cards other players might have based on what you have and what is on the board and how they are acting.

It’s all about experience and the more you play the more you learn. Once you have played enough hands you will be better at judging your opponents. Not only that, you will also be able to bluff and win (sometimes) even if you have a weak hand.

E – Eliminate
Once in a while you will get a pair of aces and what you need to do is make sure that you win. Your aim is to eliminate other players with weaker cards by raising the bet significantly, and forcing them to fold.

If there are too many players on the table then one of them is sure to have some luck with the cards that open at later stages. If not taken out initially that player could end up with a straight or flush and your aces are no match for that.

R – Realize
The final step is to realize what the other person might have and bail out early. It happens a lot of times that you bet hoping that a card you need to complete your straight or flush will come on the flop, turn or river but it never does. You keep on betting and lose money or lost of chips in free poker games. In these situations only continue if the amounts are small, once the bet is raised its better to fold.

Conclusion - Poker is not like other cards games where the best cards win, as you will know after you’ve played just a short time you can easily lose even with the best possible hand. An awful lot comes down to what cards come to you and others at the different stages of the game and the how they are acted upon by you and the other players.

Poker can be really cruel at times so the best thing to do is to play and remember that it is just a game that you cannot always win. As with any sort of gambling do not spend money that you can’t afford to lose and, if you have no money to lose or are new and want need to learn how to play poker for beginners start off by only playing free poker games in order to improve with no risk of loss and also at free sites you can often win bonuses that you can cash in on cash poker sites and use in micro and then mini stakes money games.