No wasting time on introductions! We’re gonna dive straight into things this week. If you haven’t read the Basic Tournament Theory article out a couple weeks ago, I strongly suggest you do that before continuing as this article will build directly off that without much recap at all. Onwards and upwards!

So let’s give some more practical advice to play poker tournaments.

As discussed previously, the scaling payout structure and chips not having a direct cash value strongly impacts how we should play tournaments/sngs (excepting husngs) as opposed to cash games.

Namely, early game, when stacks are deep, we should be playing extremely tight. This holds true whether we’re playing 6 man sngs or a multiple thousand person 10 handed tournament.

This is mainly for the reason that we can’t win a tournament in the first hand, or even first 10, 20, or 50 hands. In the case of larger online MTTs’, it can take hundreds of hands to make it Heads Up for the victory.

But just one bad decision can end your tournament, even if you’ve been playing incredible poker for hours. The vast majority of the time, there will be someone with a bigger stack who can bust you, or with a relatively similar stack which can severely cripple you.

While later in the game we need to loosen up to account for chipping up for a deep run, the rising blinds, and changing table dynamics (6 handed vs 9 handed play, for example), early in tournaments this is not much of a factor at all, and we shouldn’t risk our tournament life by exposing ourselves to possibility of coolers (in addition to slowly losing chips by playing lots of weaker hands) or in relatively close spots where we’re flipping or slightly ahead of our opponents.

Not to put too fine a point on it, but in a cash game we should be taking 52/48 edges allin preflop (vs our opponent’s range) just about all the time.

Early in a tournament, however, we should pass in these spots to preserve our equity. There is significant (although relatively simple) math behind this, which I’ll get into either later this article or in a 3rd (and probably final) tournament theory article if it proves necessary.

I did promise some more practical advice, so I’ll do something I rarely do and provide some example ranges which I believe are quite reasonable.

> UTG – UTG+2: JJ+ AKo AQs+
> UTG+3 – CO: TT+ AQo+ AJs+
> BTN: 77+ ATo+ A9s+ KQo KJs+
> SB: 55+ AX+ KTo+ K8s+

This is approximately from effective stacks ~100bb all the way down to ~25bb, which covers early game play.

As you can see, these ranges are quite tight (and they only apply to unopened pots).

The one thing which could be added are joining in limpedes with suited connector type hands and smaller pocket pairs. Of course, as you become more solid in your postflop decision making you can definitely widen these ranges a little bit, but it really is true that tight is right in these games early and we should just be avoiding marginal spots.

When we do have one of these hands, we want to play it hard.
Stack off with your high pocket pairs preflop, and at lowstakes (probably any NPP free poker online game, and games on Stars through $3s at least) always stack off with AK (just trust me), and it’s also probably reasonable to stack of with AQ all the time as well.

When we hit tp+ postflop on all but the wettest boards, we want to be betting and raising and generally playing for stacks except against other solid players and nits. Anyway, even if you don’t follow these ranges hand-for-hand (and face it, you should be thinking for yourselves and modifying things to fit your games!), they should give you a general sense for just how tight we should be in early game spots.

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Play few hands, but play them fast and hard, and we should be in a generally decent position come mid and endgame, which is what’s important in MTT and SNG play.

So let’s take a short at play from ~12-~20bbs deep, which is an approximation of stacks during the standard middle game of SNGs, and is also relatively common to see in quicker-paced large field tournaments (the slower ones frequently stay deeper wire-to-wire).

Come middle game, our priorities start to shift a little bit.
We still care about survival, because all the money in tournaments comes at the end. But we need to stay on top of the rising blinds or we risk losing the value of our stack by playing too tight.

The goal here isn’t just to survive til endgame, it’s to reach endgame with a playable stack and a chance at victory, although we still do need to attempt to minimize risk. The most sensible way to do this is by widening up in unopened pots from late position.

While we should still be relatively tight from EP, our btn (button) and sb ranges should widen substantially.
A reasonable btn range is something like:

BTN: 22+ A7o+ A5s+ K9o+ K8s+ QJo QTs+

Which is significantly wider than our btn range deep. Our sb range should be substantially widened as well, but I’ll let you guys figure out exactly how to craft your ranges.

Another key difference is our opening size.
While during early game phases opening to 3x+1bb per limper is generally good sizing, in middle game we should probably be opening closer to 2.5x+1bb per limper.

The sizing effectively accomplishes the same thing (at these depths; raising to 2.5x at 100bb deep will get less folds). There’s less incentive to join limpedes here unless there are many limpers in front of you, and you generally shouldn’t be getting involved in opened pots without a relatively strong hand.

When you do, you should not be calling much; be more inclined to jam over to try and utilize the fold equity you have.

This is where I’ll cut this article. I know it’s not nearly as lengthy as some of the previous, but I really want you guys to internalize and really grasp these concepts before getting into the endgame portion, because it’s pretty dense stuff.

As always, leave a message on npp, a comment on the article or on facebook, or email me at duncelanas@hotmail.com with any questions, comments, concerns etc. I don’t bite, you’ll stay anonymous, and I’ll try to help with anything you come to me with (even if it’s a completely different poker problem unrelated to one of my articles).

I haven’t had many messages, but I think the few I have had have definitely helped people understand the content better as well as helping me learn to relay my thoughts better, so definitely feel free to contact me with anything. Until next time, I hope you play solid and run well!

- Gloves

Other articles in the free online poker From The Ground Up series by pro online poker player Gloves.

Part 1 - Patience on steroids “Common Sense Poker

Part 2 – Hand Ranges, Playable Pockets, Table Position and Limping

Part 3 - Postflop Play scenarios. Optimal play against different player styles

Part 4 – Poker math – Outs and Odds

Part 5 - Basic poker tournament theory

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Hey everyone, Gloves here again with another article in my free online poker “From the Ground Up” series. This article will be focusing on some of the key differences between tournament and cash play as well as how to translate the concepts taught in my other articles to tournament play specifically.

I also plan on giving a brief introduction to a concept called ICM (independent chip model), although I’ll probably devote another entire article to it soon. I hope you all have enjoyed your Christmas and New Year’s holidays and the wait for another article hasn’t been killing you! I think I’m leaning towards writing an article every 2 weeks now to give you guys more time to digest the concepts and ask any questions that spring to mind. Now that the holidays are over the schedule will normalize again! Let’s get to the poker! 

Tournament play has 4 major differences from cash play (note that “tournament” from here on out will refer to either big tournaments or sngs of any size).

> The first is the chips used.

• > In cash game poker (ring games), you buy in directly with your cash.
• > Every time you win or lose a pot, you directly lose that much money.
• > Players can also add on to their stacks in any size increment they want at any time (typically up to 100bb maximum).
• > You’re free to leave at any time, and you pocket the profit (or suffer the loss) immediately.
• > Tournament poker, however, involves paying a buyin which gives you a set amount of chips.
• > You play the tournament until you either run out of chips or accumulate all the chips in play (excepting a few specific tournament types).

> This leads us to the second difference – payout structure.

• > Unlike ring game chips, tournament chips don’t have direct, immediate monetary value.
• > You can’t leave the table and pocket tournament chips as profit.
• > You’re paid out based on your finish position; before then your chips are worth equity but not actual cash.
• > Typically tournaments pay out approximately 10% of the field (most of the world’s best online mtt players cash somewhere between 12-17% of the time) on a sliding scale that’s generally very top heavy.

> The third difference is the blind levels (and, consequently, stacksizes).

• > In ring games, the blinds never change. If you’re playing $1/$2, the small and big blinds will always be $1 and $2 respectively.
• > Because of this and the point mentioned earlier that cash players can always “top up” their stack to 100bb deep, cash poker is almost always deeper stacked than tournament poker.
• > In tournaments, blinds consistently go up (although the number of levels in the structure and the time of each level varies by tournament).
• > While an online “deep stack” tournament may typically start at 10/20 with 3000 chips (150bbs deep, which is deeper than standard cash play), after an hour or two the average stack could easily be 50bb or less.
• > After the first 45 or so minutes of most online “turbo” tournaments, average stacks can be 12bbs or lower which means that the game basically becomes preflop shove-or-fold poker.

> The fourth difference is simpler.

• > When we sit at a fullring (9/10 handed cash game table) on most sites, play will be at least 8 handed the vast majority of the time.
• > At a 6max table, 90%+ of hands will take place with 5 or more players.
• > Tournaments (when making deep runs, at a final table, or playing a sitngo) are more frequently short handed.
• > In fact, to win a tournament, we have to win a heads up match against another opponent.

So how should we adjust our game to reflect these key differences? 

The first, most obvious thing to do is to make sure we can actually play the tournaments we sign up for!

• > An online large field regular speed or deep stack tournament can easily take 6 hours to complete, if not more!
• > Reaching the money typically happens somewhere around the 2 or 2 and a half hour mark.

> Realistically, we only make the money 10 or 15% of the time (and final table the tournament a fraction of a percent, assuming a large, multiple thousand player field, or just a few percent of the time in a multiple hundred player field), so it’s not like this will be an everyday occurrence if we’re just playing one or two tables at a time, but late in tournaments is where all the money is.

If you’ve invested 5 hours playing a tourney, have built a big stack, and are looking to convert a big score, how would you feel if you suddenly had to leave because you made plans with friends, or your wife/gf expects you to do something, or anything of that nature?

Of course, there will be emergencies that cannot be avoided. But not assuring that you have enough time to play to the end if you happen to run deep can cost you hundreds of dollars in equity from a single tournament, even something as low as a $3 or $5 buyin!

Micro and lowstakes tournaments (on pokerstars, the biggest real money poker site worldwide) almost always have thousands of dollars in the prize pool, so you can really cost yourself a lot if you have to leave late in a tourney.

Of course, this is why many players choose to play sit n goes.

• > An 18 man turbo sng (on pokerstars, again) takes about an hour start to finish.
• > So if I have 2 hours to play, I can fire up a session of 18 mans, load games for about an hour, stop loading after that time passes, and run out my games before I have to leave.
• > The time commitment for a sng is much less than for a large field tournament, where you must be prepared to commit many hours after the last game you register for starts.

While on a site like NoPayPOKER with small fields (so tourneys wrap up quicker) and less money on the line (sure, you might lose a few hundred FreeDs in equity, but that only equates to a couple bucks), this is much less of a problem.

In general you should always understand how long the games you start could take to finish, whether or not it’s 10 minutes for a hyperturbo, 45 minutes for a sng, or 8 hours for a large field mtt (multi-table tournament).

If you can’t block off the time, don’t start the game. Consider playing something shorter or sitting cash, where you can cut your session at any time.

Let’s take a brief look at how changing payout structures affect play

We’ll be taking a much more in-depth (and, you guessed it, mathematical) look at this in the near future, so this will be quite basic.

• > Play is entirely dictated by a tournament’s payout structure.  For example, consider a winner-take-all tournament.
• > We’re trying to make the most value every hand to gain all the chips in play.

> Contrast this with a (hypothetical) tournament that pays out the bottom 10% of the field (first 10% to bust).

• > The strategy for this type of tournament might be to go allin every hand and hope to lose, or to raise so we have 1 chip left, fold, and go allin the second hand.
• > Obviously this tournament isn’t real, and this will never be an ideal strategy.
• > But for now, trust me when I say that this applies to all different tournaments.

Payout structures dictate play – a winner-take-all tournament plays different from a satellite which pays the top 50 players equally which plays differently from a top heavy tournament paying 10% of the field (top heavy meaning top 3 get a large percentage of the prize pool) which plays differently from a bottom heavy (less for top 3, more for lower places percentage wise) tournament paying 10% of the field.

A couple articles from now we’ll take an exhaustive look at this. For now just try to realize this fact and dwell on how the differences might affect strategy.

• > A hint: flatter payout structures generally mean we should take less risks and play tighter. But try to get more detailed than that, if you have some time to think on it.
• > Add a reason to my hint if you can, as well.

Now we’re going to have a more in depth look at the third and fourth differences, changing blind levels (and stacksizes) and changing dynamics based on how many players are at the table.

• > As stacksizes decrease (relative to the big blind), play naturally becomes more aggressive.
• > If we’re 100bb deep early in the tournament, raising preflop to win the blinds (1.5bb) is a miniscule addition to our stack.
• > If we’re 8bb deep late, however, assuming a standard ante size of .2bb at a 10 man table we’re picking up 3.5bb, which represents an astonishing near 50% increase to our stack. Just for scooping the blinds!

This directly connects to the number of players at the table, as well.

• > With 10 people at the table there’s much less pressure on us to act because the blinds come around less often.
• > This is why in HU play it’s correct to be extremely aggressive while in ring games and early in tournaments we should be playing very very tight.
• > The blinds are very very important, especially in tournament play!
• > As tablesizes shrink, we’re paying the blinds that much more often.
• > Which means to maintain our current stacksize, we need to steal the blinds that much more.
• > But since blinds go up, maintaining our stacksize is actually shrinking our stack, as the most important measure is not the number of chips but the number of bbs we (and our opponents at the table) have.

> This cycle causes extremely aggressive (and correct) play to become the norm in tournaments when shallow stacked.

I’m going to cut the article here. I understand this is just a broad theoretical look at tournament poker. The next article will be much more practical – in fact, the most practical article I’ve written thus far.

I hope you’ve gained some understanding and this primes you for the next article, which should be out within a couple weeks.

As always, feel free to comment on the articles on facebook, on the articles themselves, on my NPP page, or by emailing me at duncelanas@hotmail.com. Questions, comments, concerns, suggestions…all is welcome! Good luck at the tables and see you soon!

Previous article – part 4

For many more free online poker lessons and the rest of Justins series see the poker lessons directory page.

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We all know (or should!) that setting specific goals in all aspects of our lives is essential. After all, if you don’t know what you want you’re never gonna get it! So take some time to think about it and make them as specific as possible, even for shorter term things like new shoes

Everything from shoes to houses, boats and, not forgetting of course, winning the WSOP…or maybe just moving up to the next skill level (Set a goal of reading all our read our free online poker articles to learn how to do that!)

Now for a real example, for this we thank NoPay member Malverium for the article “Happy new Year” here it is -

It’s the start of a brand new year. It’s the time of the year to set goals and challenge yourself!

I’ve played poker casually for the past 4 years whilst studying. Never made it past 10 NL 6 Max and 25 NL full ring, but hopefully that will change this year!

To make this relatively short, I’ll just list the goals I’ll be working towards this coming year. Both in poker and life.

Poker Goals:

1. Make it to Mid-Stakes, haven’t decided if I want to play full ring or 6max.

But I’ll move up when I win $500 playing either 10 NL 6 Max or 25 NL Full Ring. Move up when I hit 1k, move down if I lose 8 BIs at 6 Max/4 BIs at Full Ring.

2. Achieve a decent win rate at all stakes.

3. Take some time to study poker every weekend.

4. Review my hands after every 10k hands.

Life Goals:

1. Find a job! I just finished studying and have been looking for a job with no success so far. So I need to get my act together and get a graduate/entry level position (Its pretty expensive living in Australia, I probably won’t go pro unless I earn 40k+ per year).

2. Get fit, go to the pool at least once a week, lose 5 kg (I’m not going to be too strict on how much I lose but I’d like to be fitter than I currently am, atm I’m about 24.3 BMI).

Summary:

• Make Mid-Stakes, Find a job, Get fit.
• When I’m playing I’m gonna enjoy it (play hard)
• When I’m working I’m gonna work hard

GL to everybody else in 2012 also . Will start grinding today or tomorrow.

As you know, the free online poker games at No Pay Poker are a powerful way to improve your poker game as well as winning some money at the same time. Here are some tricks on how to in money at NoPay without spending anything other than time.

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4. Do not play the cash tables!
Not until you’re good anyway. Maybe you are fed up with freerolls and/or tourneys and want some real action in the cash tables. Well, you should not do it. Why? Because you can lose money. You might also win some too but when you do you’ll want to play more and soon or later, you will lose. You can’t win every time you play, and this means you will lose money (if you play freerolls and leagues, this won’t happen) but once you’re a decent player and if you have ambition to graduate to real cash games at places like PartyPoker, Titan and Winner then you can try these games later on, but as a beginner or even intermediate (in free poker) – avoid.

I hope this advice helps, it’s not hard to get some free poker money from NPP very quickly and easily AND you get to improve your poker skills game without losing any FreeD/money.